Tag Archives: graffiti

Valencia: Modernity over Antiquity

Years ago, when I first had the idea of moving to Spain, I set my sights on Valencia. I’ve no idea why– I was just drawn there for no apparent reason. Perhaps it had something to do with a video I’d seen of La Tomatina, or a microwavable paella from Sainsbury’s that I’d bought and lovingly devoured on numerous occasions. In any case, I ended up in Cádiz, and quickly forgot about any irrational fixation I’d had with Valencia.

Since moving to Granada– a few hundred kilometres closer than Cádiz –the thought had restored itself, often surfacing each time one of our beloved puentes came around and, with that, the prospect of wandering and discovering yet another Spanish city.

Earlier this month I decided I’d waited long enough, so off we went– me and the one who we shall from herein call ‘E’.

valencia, map, spain

What struck me almost immediately about Valencia was how distinctly more contemporary it is than what I’m used to in Andalucía. I’d had the same realisation in Lisbon, the previous month, and left feeling as unexcited about Granada as I’d ever been, despite its numerable assets. Flanking Valencia’s city centre are the Jardines de Turia– a long stretch of green (formerly a river bed) littered with ponds, bridges, sculptures, sunbathers and drunken yet surprisingly talented buskers. We don’t get much grass in Andalucía, so it was lovely, if not a little strange, to be surrounded by so much of it.

The Turia Gardens lead to the resplendent Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias– a quite breathtaking assembly of ambitious, alien spacecraft resembling architecture. I doubt there is a better contrast to Spain’s overwhelmingly traditional demeanour– there’s El Parasol in Seville and Bilbao’s Guggenheim but neither reach the immensity of Valencia’s city of art and science in my opinion.

The exterior will keep you gawking all day long, unless you are distracted by one of the many enterprises on offer within the city. Ever fancied a go at zorbing? Or kayaking, perhaps? Thanks to the moat-like turquoise water that filters through the site, activities like these are perfectly possible. And they look like fun! Though I’m not really sure I fully understand the purpose of zorbing just yet. For information on prices, opening hours etc, visit the City of Art and Science website.


It is possible to spend the entire day at the City of Art and Science, given that it is divided into six parts: The Hemisféric, The Science Museum, Oceanográfic Aquarium, Palau de Arts, The Umbracle and The Ágora. All offer something different, in the name of of modern art and science. We chose to see the Oceanográfic– Europe’s second largest Aquarium –and The Hemisféric– an enormous IMAX dome that shows visually thrilling documentaries all day long.

We spent almost half our time in the Oceanográfic watching Dolphins obediently jump and splash about in a 24 million-litre and 10.5m deep tank. For this we were later berated by friends in Granada, since, according to them at least, all dolphins held in captive pertain in some way to the baiting and mass-slaughtering of dolphins in East Asia. I’m not sure I agree, given how the Atlantic has its own multitude of bottlenose dolphins. The aquarium also appears to be actively involved in the prevention of ‘finning’, a process whereby sharks’ fins are hacked off to make soup while the rest of them is thrown back into the sea where they will drown or be eaten alive, so I struggle to believe that there would be any dark dealings going on behind the scenes.

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The Hemisféric provided me with my first ever experience of an IMAX cinema. Until then I had found it difficult to imagine exactly what would happen, and how it would differ to regular 3D cinema screenings. There was an X-Man style headset, which was ultimately a bit of a letdown since all it did was provide sound via one headphone– E’s didn’t work at all –but the visuals were incredible, purely just for how gigantic everything was.

valencia, art, science, spain, contemporary, modern, science city
L’Hemisfèric, Valencia

Valencia’s city centre bears more of a resemblance to the usual landmarks in any given Spanish city; the Plaza de Ayuntamiento is its focal point, and the cathedral plus several other intricately carved buildings– including La Lonja de Seda, a 15th century silk exchange –are all within walking distance. Beyond that though, is the happening barrio of El Carmen. This is where Valencia comes alive at night, as we were later to discover, but I was far more interested in another draw: street art (surprise).

Yes, by now you might have noted my growing fascination with street art, especially if you are a reader of my other blog, where I write about and post photos of it regularly. Prior to my inevitable and directionless DIY tour of El Carmen’s backstreets, on which E was remarkably patient I must say, I had contacted fellow Spain and Valencia-based blogger Zach, of Not Hemmingway’s Spain, who, given his superior knowledge, was kind enough to give me some idea of where to look. That was a good starting point, but naturally I was lost within minutes, and probably gave up on the map a little too easily. Along my way, I encountered several pieces of seriously impressive street art, including this masterstroke from DEIH, who I featured in a recent post on some of my favourite street artists.

valencia, art, science, spain, contemporary, modern, graffiti, deih
Work of DEIH, Valenciano Street Artist

There are evidently many artists defined by their own individual styles at work in Valencia. One image that we saw on virtually every corner was the sneaky ninja man, whose creator I cannot find on Google. El Carmen is bursting with fantastic street art, adding yet more of the modern touch to an already unconventional Spanish city.


If I keep visiting cities like Valencia and Lisbon I fear I may end up falling out of love with Granada;  its awesomeness in the traditional sense (and the close proximity of the Sierra Nevada) has always quietly atoned for a general lack of newfangledness, but now I’m not so sure. I want to stay in Spain– that I am at least sure of. It’s certainly time for a change though.

Have you been to Valencia? Do you live there? What impressed you about the city?

Street Art, Nightlife and Sean Connery Spanish in Lisbon

“¿Hay mash bolshas?” I asked tentatively at the supermarket checkout. The cashier’s response– a mere look of bemusement rather than any actual words –suggested I had got something wrong. She dug another bag out from beneath her counter and threw it to me apathetically. Of course I’d got something wrong. People speak Portuguese in Portugal, not this bizarre, Sean Connery-like Spanish that I had suddenly started spewing. What was wrong with me? Quickly filling up the extra bag with Muesli and cherry jam, both of which I was quietly excited about, and collected my receipt. “Graciash”.

This was worrying.

Unless I count two or three fortnight-long family holidays in the Algarve in my prepubescent years– which I don’t –I had never been to Portugal before. And if I did count those occasions then I still wouldn’t be able to say I’d been to Lisbon– somewhere I’d been desperate to visit for as long as I have lived in Spain.

We spent four days, taking our time and properly getting to know the place; any less than three and you just don’t get the full package. That first day, save for a few more Sean Connery Spanish outbursts and (cough) a tense hour spent watching football in an Irish pub (cough), went rather well.

Lisbon’s central train station and metro stop sits by the coastline at the foot of Bairro Alto, and was just one stop away from ours in the Alcântara area. Moseying along the promenade towards the enormous and tourist-brimming Plaza del Comercio was a perfect way to get things started. And then the first of what were to be many, many pastry feeding frenzies and a wander up to the gothic Santa Justa Elevator was the perfect way to round the afternoon off.

(Note: there is nearly always a huge queue to ride the elevator to the very top, which costs €5, but entrance is free to the slightly lower caged section if you make the 15-minute uphill walk.)

Plaza del Comercio, Lisbon
Plaza del Comercio, Lisbon
santa justa elevator, lisbon, portugal
View from the Santa Justa Elevator

We spent our next day exploring the magnificent Sintra, a national park area dotted with 19th-century Roman architecture and gorgeous royal retreats. Hop over to Cheeky Jaunt to read all about it.

Street Art

Back in Lisbon, we set out to find some of the epic street art we had seen pictures of prior to the trip. Fortunately, we had stumbled upon a very useful blog post that included a Google Maps screenshot of the best areas to find street art marked on it. This, however, turned out not to be as accurate as previously thought, after two hours of fruitless searching. Eventually though, our persistence paid off and we were rewarded with works from Os Gemeos, Vhils and various other urban artists scattered around the city.


Our AirBnB rented apartment was a stone’s throw from the famous April 25 bridge of the Alcântara neighbourhood, so-called after the Carnation Revolution of 1974, which came to a head on April 25 . Just beyond this bridge is a long wall, covered in street art referencing the revolution. They say a picture is worth a thousand words and the adage certainly holds true here; each image was incredibly powerful, and way more poignant than anything else we had seen, either in Lisbon or Granada.

Given that we happened to be visiting the capital less than a week before the 40 year anniversary of the revolution, the wall was probably more suggestive of past hardships than it normally is.


Click here for a more in-depth post on Lisbon’s street art.


There is only one place to go in Lisbon if you’re looking for an authentic taste of its nightlife: Bairro Alto. It’s a bit of a climb if you’re not already staying there (most of the hostels on Hostelworld and HostelBookers seem to be located here) but well worth the legwork.

There are easily over a hundred bars and restaurants battling for space in this cramped barrio of the city, and plenty of boutiques in between. The atmosphere is buzzing and prices are generally more tourist friendly the further up you go; we found plenty of familiar looking ‘Erasmus’ bars flogging suspect mojitos and large draft beers at €1.50 each, though we plumped for posh dark beer and minty fresh mojitos at more stylish bars like Majong and Pensão Amor (the old whorehouse– emphasis on old) towards the lower end.

Since it is legal to drink in the street in Lisbon, providing it is from a plastic cup, Bairro Alto is never particularly quiet nor clean at night, though it was always cleaned up by the morning when we were there. We ate at several restaurants in the Bairro Alto/Baixa area but my highest recommendation– if you crave curries as much as I do –would be Restaurant Natraj on Rua dos Sapateiros. Reasonable prices, generous portions and speedy service, though they call Rogan Josh ‘Rogan Gosh’ here for some reason. Wasn’t happy, but I still had it, and it was delicious.

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There is a much more cosmopolitain feel to Lisbon than what we are used to in Granada, where I have begun to tire a little of the provincial attitude. As a holiday destination, it might just be unbeatable. Could I live there? That depends if I can swap snowboarding for surfing– something I’ll be hopefully getting to grips with in Valencia this weekend.

Vamosh a ver…

Have you visited Lisbon? What did you think?

CBBH Photo Challenge: Street Art

For months now, I’ve been meaning to get involved with Marianne’s (of East Of Malaga) monthly photo challenge. I suppose I hadn’t until today because I don’t really fancy myself as a great photographer. I take pictures of what I like, edit them, stick a few in a blog post slideshow and that’s about it. My thought process rarely extends beyond that. This month’s theme though – ‘Street Art’ – got me interested. I mean, how couldn’t I participate, given that we in Granada are fortuitous enough to have El Niño de las Pinturas among us. This guy has been smearing Granada’s dull, lifeless walls with his vivid and magnetising imagination for 20 years now. Exactly 20 years, in fact; a documentary about him was made and premiered last weekend in a local realejo bar (my neck of the woods). He has daubed countless pieces in that time, and to choose my two favourites has been virtually impossible! So I chose four instead. Is that cheating? Marianne? In any case, I absolutely adore the style and depth in all of them, and particularly the interpretation in the one of the giraffe. For a look at other examples of his work see my original post here.

el nino de las pinturas, el niño de las pinturas, graffiti, granada, spain, españa
‘Cansao de no encontrar respuesta, decidí cambiar mis preguntas’ (Tired of not finding an answer, I decided to change my questions)
el nino de las pinturas, el niño de las pinturas, graffiti, granada, spain, españa, violin
La Violinista joven
el nino de las pinturas, el niño de las pinturas, graffiti, granada, spain, españa, girafe
El Girafe
el nino de las pinturas, el niño de las pinturas, graffiti, granada, spain, españa, violin
La Violinista mayor

But the CBBH Photo Challenge is more than just an opportunity to show off your camera skills; it is a blog hop as well. The first ‘C’ and ‘B’, after all, do stand for conejo blanco (white rabbit). So each post posted in response to Marianne’s original post must include two links to two other blogs that the blogger has visited and commented on in the last month, so that his/her readers can ‘hop’ over to some unchartered corner of the frankly enormous blogosphere. It’ all about helping each other out you see. And we’re good at that in Spain.

So I will take this opportunity to direct you to Clare of Need Another Holiday. Clare’s blog, much like my own, new blog, focuses on part-time travel, as opposed to those that celebrate a nomadic and often vagrant existence. She has been all over. But mostly Greece. She absolutely loves Greece.

Secondly, I’d like to shout out to a blogger who has really wowed me with her vlog series recently. Jess, of HolaYessica!, blogs about Barcelona and various Spanish escapades. Her output rate is frankly unbelievable and her style and writing standards never falter. She’s also – fittingly – excellent with a camera. So go and say hi, and tell her that I sent you!

If you want to take part in the CBBH Photo Challenge, just head over to Marianne’s blog and read on. It’s fun and gives you a chance to share those pics that deserve to be seen!

Graffiti in Granada, and why it should stay…

Last year I posted about Granadino graffiti artist El Niño de las Pinturas. He’s something of a local hero round here, owing to his trademark and instantly recognisable style that adorns the city’s walls, particularly in my bario, El Realejo.

Each piece I have seen is extraordinarily well done, and I insist on taking any friends on a tour of his works each time I am visited. Neither they nor anybody I’ve met here in Granada has ever had a bad word to say about the mystery man’s cultured contributions. Often he is invited by local businesses to come and jazz up their dull and colourless walls, and a couple of the local museums in town even feature him in their brochures. It gives Granada an urban edge that it would otherwise lack.

So it came as a shock when I happened to walk by one of my favourite pieces near the infamous, el niño-fied house, to find that it had  been scrubbed away. Well, nearly anyway. Whoever had been assigned the task hadn’t done a very good job of it; there was still half of it left, as if to suggest that the design had been defiled out of pure spite.

el niño de las pinturas, el niño, granada, art, graffiti, josh taylor
Las Caras, back in October
el niño de las pinturas, el niño, granada, art, graffiti, josh taylor
…and now

What is the point?

Fair enough, at the end of the day these walls are somebody else’s property, and el niño, among other urban artists (some of whose works are admittedly a lot uglier in comparison) probably don’t have permission to use them. But what’s done is done, and as a matter of fact they (el niño’s contributions at least) actually brighten the place up, and bring an extra element to Granada’s cultural side.

I desperately hope that this isn’t the start of a mass graffiti-ridding project. There’s good graffiti and there’s bad graffiti, and el niño de las pinturas is unquestionably of the former sort.

Granada: Home Is Where The Art Is

Throughout the 10 months or so that I have been lucky enough to call myself a resident of Granada, I have always been fascinated with the plethora of unrivalled Graffiti that adorns the historical city’s walls. Some of it, admittedly, is either of a shoddy or unremarkable standard, but a handsome percentage of this urban art is nothing short of awe-inspiring. There are, I’m sure, hundreds of would-be-artists claiming recognition for some of the city’s most famed pieces, but if you were to stop beside one and ask a number of passing locals if they knew the name of the artisan behind it, you would most likely hear just one answer: El Niño de las Pinturas (The Child of The Paintings). This guy is a proper legend. And I mean PROPER. For years he has been smearing previously dull-white walls with his unmistakable signature across the whole of Granada. Some of his pieces have featured in art magazines, documentaries and are now even considered a tourist attraction by the Granada Tourism Board, who will only be too happy to point art-ardent tourists in the right direction.

“Some people become cops because they want to make the world a better place. Some people become vandals because they want to make the world a better looking place.” 

Banksy, Wall and Piece

The best part is, he remains a mystery. Well, perhaps not entirely, as I’m sure there are plenty of locals who would instantly recognise him in the street, but  amongst us ‘giris’, the man’s face is as recognisable as a long lost aunt’s after two car crashes and several facelifts. A friend of mine was adamant that she knew the luminary’s identity, but after a terribly awkward yet hilarious (for me) conversation in a pub, the alleged master-painter (no, ‘painter’, not ‘bater’) turned out to be a full-time ice-cream vendor. Whoever he is, he’s supposed to be really nice anyway; another friend was lucky enough to have part of her garden wall painted by him, though the piece, sadly, has remained unfinished for years. Anyhow, I considered it not only a resident’s unmitigated duty, but a wholly gratifying experience to wander Granada’s streets and capture a selection of the legendary artist’s most stunning efforts. Scroll away…